When many think about the midwest, they'll think of corn and wheat fields. Others will think about barbecue. There are a few, though, that will consider an up-and-coming mountainous area of this country.
Introducing the Ozark National Forest, otherwise known as the Interior Highlands of the United States. The Ozarks are mostly situated in Northern Arkansas and Southern Missouri, with a slight extension into Oklahoma and Kansas. Access to the Ozarks is limited in terms of interstate highways, but can be reached from United States routes 65 and 67 to the north and south, as well as through Missouri on U.S. Route 60, and through Arkansas along U.S. Route 62, famous for being the only east-west signed highway to connect, save for a couple blocks, the Mexican and Canadian borders.
If you enjoy the great outdoors, the Ozarks are certainly for you, as there are a vast amount of mountains and lakes to enjoy. Head to Northern Arkansas and visit the Buffalo National River. Designated as the first National River in the 1970s, this area is maintained by the National Park Service. If fishing is your cup of tea, perhaps head to the twin lakes of Norfork and Bull Shoals. Plenty of hunting grounds also exist across the national forest. RVers may also have heard rumors of the famed campgrounds built by the United States Army Corps of Engineers, or CoE. This organization set aside dozens of grounds within the Ozarks for visitors to be able to enjoy these vast highlands, both for camping at an economical price, as well as day use.
Perhaps you're more of a city-goer. Never fear, within the Interior Highlands are a few places for you. The Springfield Plateau, one of the regions of the Ozarks, is named after the largest city in this area, Springfield MO. If you enjoy live theatre, you may want to head a little south to Branson MO, sometimes called the Broadway of the west. Head down into Arkansas to the famous city of Bentonville AR. It was here that the Walton family owned and operated a general store that soon expanded to become the internationally renowned retail establishment known as "Wal-Mart".
No matter how your internal compass is wired, the next time you're in the southern central United States, it may just lead you to a wonderful time in the Ozarks.
English poet William Wordsworth wrote "The Tables Turned" back in 1798. For the full-time RVer, these words could not be more true. With limited space, it is difficult to carry a number of books, even with taking hard drive space and "eBooks" into account. The quotation from this poem, "Let nature be your teacher," was found on our travels, and is quite befitting for a new series on this blog, where we take time from the RV and look at the world around us.
At the south side of the Twin Lakes of Arkansas lies Norfork Dam. This dam was yet another of the multitude of projects built by the US Army Corps of Engineers in the early 1940's, in response to large amounts of flooding in this part of the country. As with many of the dams built by the CoE, a small amount of hydroelectric power is generated here, serving north central Arkansas. Today, a short driving route sits atop, connecting the communities of Salesville and Jordan, along with a boat access point to Norfork Lake at the high point of the dam.
A marvel of engineering is not the only thing this place has to offer, as nearby lies the Norfork National Fish Hatchery. In a bid to protect and sustain wildlife, the United States Fish and Wildlife Service established a number of hatcheries across the country to breed these animals before releasing them to their natural habitat. Norfork's tanks house several species of trout. Step inside the bird-proof netting and walk along the tanks; you may just see a number of baby fish jumping at the top of the water. Once the fish have grown to be self-supporting, they are then released into the nearby Norfork River to enjoy their lives. It is near the hatchery where Arkansas created a small catch-and-release pier to encourage the fish to migrate.Even if you don't have a pole with you, a short nature walk along the river will bring you to peace.
So the next time you need a break from the hustle and bustle of driving and camp life, let nature be your teacher. Allow it to re-orient your internal compass, and you will be better prepared for the adventures that lie before you.
Looking for a fun seasonal destination? Love a good show, but stuck in the midwest? Looking for some fun family entertainment between all the shows? Never fear, there's a place in southwest Missouri for you.
Welcome to Branson, Missouri: The Live Music Capital of the World. Branson is a small city about 35 miles south of the famed Route 66 via the city of Springfield. Branson is nestled right within the rolling hills of the Ozarks along one of the major tributaries of this area: the White River. Once you make it to Main Street, a choice exists. Head east, and you'll visit the historic Downtown district, with many quaint shops and the first of the show attractions for which Branson is famous, the Owen Theatre. Head west, and you'll come across a multitude of theatres founded by many celebrities such as Dolly Parton, Yakov Smirnoff, Shoji Tabuchi, and Andy Williams. Before seeing one of these shows, perhaps visit one of several visitor centers which, like the eastern counterpart in Times Square of New York City, offers discount tickets to several shows in town.
If live shows aren't your thing, or you need something to do in the daytime, then never fear, because Branson has plenty for you. Visit a museum dedicated to the most famous oceanic mishap of the 20th century: the Titanic. Ripley's and Hollywood have also established a few of their brand of museums along the way. Maybe go to one of many family fun centers for a round of mini-golf, some go-karting, or ride the roller coasters that take advantage of the natural steep hills of the Ozarks. If you need a break from the hustle and bustle of tourists, head outside the city for some spellunking. Southwestern Missouri is filled with many cave centers and other natural wonders for you and your family to explore. Grab a bite to eat at Paula Deen's famous restaurant downtown, some barbecue at several locations along the western Main Street, or at the ice cream and novelty shops throughout downtown and the west. Whether you're six or sixty, you're bound to have fun everywhere in Branson.
If you plan to take a trip to the area, remember that Branson is very much a seasonal location. The winter finds many of the venues and restaurants closed, while the retailers to the north of the city continue to service the locals. Once spring rolls around, everything begins to open in anticipation of the tourist season running through the summer. Plenty of hotels are centrally located along the theatre row of western Main Street, with RV parks and campgrounds around the outside. Springfield isn't far up US Route 65 if larger box retailers are needed for a re-supply.
So while your internal compass takes you southwest, maybe make a stop in Branson. Good times await all on your adventure.
Calling all aspiring spelunkers! Time to grab your head lamps and head to Southwestern Missouri for a unique experience and opportunity.
Just north of Springfield, Missouri lies Crystal Cave. Like many of these natural wonders, these caves have been developed for thousands of years. Situated on property owned by the Mann family, Crystal Cave became one of the oldest caves to be a tourist destination in Missouri, dating all the way back to 1893. A fun family outing for many years, and after generations of ownership including both family and trusted friends, as well as varying levels of commitment to upkeep, Crystal Cave was recently purchased and rehabilitated to once again become a place to experience.
While at Crystal Cave, take one of the hourly guided tours of the inside of the cave. Pass through some of the locally repurposed fencing and gates before entering the awe-inspiring first room. While inside, be sure to visit many marvels such as the Upside-Down Well, the Cathedral Chamber, and one of the most exciting, Jacob's Room. See a number of Helictite features within these caves, which are similar in location to stalactites, but come in a formation similar to a corkscrew, believed to be a result of the soil above. Although the cave is not easily accessible to those with limited mobility, features have been added by the present ownership to make the chambers easy to traverse for even the largest sized of guests.
If some of those in your party are claustrophobic, or you're waiting for your tour of the cave to begin, never fear, because the Crystal Cave property has plenty more to go around. Take a ride on a small train through the grounds, learning about the area. Step inside the gift shop and play a nine-hole round of mini-golf. Experience some of the nostalgic game machines found in the penny arcade. Perhaps pan for some gems and fossils as you sift through the dirt to find these treasures. Or just view and read about the history of Crystal Cave and the surrounding area. Plenty of choices await you when you visit.
So the next time your internal compass takes you underground, follow it into Crystal Cave. Nature will be your teacher as you re-charge yourself through exploration.
Hey, fishermen! Get your bait ready, and head to the Natural State, as do we have quite the location for you.
Running throughout Northern Arkansas and Southern Missouri is the major tributary, the White River. Starting at the Boston Mountains, the White River twists and turns through the area, forming several lakes along the way thanks to the work of the Army Corps of Engineers (CoE), before finally emptying into the Mississippi River after over 700 miles of flow. The White River has many tributaries off from it, including, as part of the National Park system and one of its few free-to-visit sites, the Buffalo National River.
Many anglers will find their way to Cotter AR, colloquially known as "Trout Capital USA". People from all over the south and midwest flock to Big Spring Park in the heart of the town and set off in their motorboats, kayaks, and other water vessels to explore this wonderful area and try their hand and catch-and-release trout fishing. Even those wishing to stay on land have plenty of options at this park, such as seeing the tribute to the now defunct Missouri Pacific Railroad, including a caboose donated by the rail company. Even if it's a nature trail walk along the bluff overlooking the river, or on the island in the middle of the river, this place has something for everyone.
The White River is known for having several settled lakes along its path as a result of the flood control efforts of the Army CoE. Just east of Bentonville lies Beaver Lake, known for its limestone bluffs. Further down near the city of Branson, lies Lake Taneycomo. This lake is unique in that, although it is officially a lake, it has the look and feel of a river. While in downtown Branson, take a walk along the lakeside with the commercial plaza just to the other side. Further downstream lies Bull Shoals Lake, another fine boating location for recreationers. Although flooding is still of concern in the early parts of the year as you head further downstream, the river is allowed to flow naturally through the National Wildlife Refuge of southeastern Arkansas before emptying into the mighty Mississippi.
So the next time your internal compass tells you to go to the water, consider the White River. It may just be the place for you.
Looking for some nice views? Feeling like an aspiring lepidopterist? Just want a place to kick back and relax? Oh, do we have the place for you.
Situated throughout Northern Arkansas, one of the National Park Service's offerings is the Buffalo National River. This river spans over 100 miles throughout Arkansas, and is able to be visited by the public without a general entrance fee. Information stations and general camping areas are found at three locations along the river. Visitors to the upper portion of the river may head to Ponca and the Steel Creek station. Some from the eastern portions will head between Yellville and Harriet to the Buffalo Point station. Most visitors traveling along Highway 65 between Marshall and Harrison to the Tyler Bend Visitor Center. Each of these points offer camping opportunities, along with day visits.
Prior to becoming protected by the National Park Service in 1964, the Buffalo National River area was once the site of several limestone quarries. Evidence of this is still seen today, as the river flows along many large cliffs and bluffs of limestone and other sedimentary rocks within a fairly deep valley, as motorists will want to beware the steep grades. If you happen to be at Buffalo Point, head down the hill to the rocky beach formed from the sediments that once graced this area to access the water. Perhaps take a tour offered by one of the private guides conducting business nearby. If you're lucky, you may see a cliff diver or two that stop by from boating along the river.
If staying on the land is more of your cup of tea, never fear, for there are plenty of options around. Hiking trails range across the Buffalo National River area at many levels of difficulty, and offer amazing views overlooking the river, along with the ability to view several different species of butterflies. On some trails, you may be able to find and explore caves and waterfalls created from the surface water flowing into the rock, with the underground streams flowing into the river. Perhaps you want to saddle up and take some of the trails by horseback. The Ponca area, along with several other points along the river, will give you this opportunity.
So the next time you're following your internal compass in Arkansas, perhaps it will take you to the Buffalo National River. It may just be somewhere to visit several times while in the area.
Any road trip enthusiast who travels this country is drawn to a historic route. They want a route winding from Chicago to Santa Monica, even if only for a few of the 2000 miles.
United States Route 66, the Mother Road, is one of the most famous roadways in pop culture. Navigating through eight midwestern and western states, drivers and riders experience a nostalgic look at Main Street USA, small tourist attractions, and a reminder of a golden age of Americana. Route 66 has long since been decommissioned by the Federal government and replaced by the Interstate Highway system, most notably interstates 55, 44, and 40. However, many states have come to pick up the maintenance of this road, and recent signage allows the driver to know they are along what used to be this well known highway.
When driving between Oklahoma City and the northeastern border of the state, Route 66 remains a great way to avoid the tolls of the Will Rogers Turnpike. Most of the Mother Road in the state has been designated today as State Highway 66. Make a stop at the Blue Whale of Catoosa, situated along the highway just outside of Tulsa. First built by Hugh Davis and completed in 1972, the whale served as a small water park for travelers throughout his life. Although closed in the 90's after the owner died, this attraction has since been re-opened and is now maintained by the city of Catoosa. As you travel further northeast, there are many indications of the "Historic Route 66" breaking from the state highway. Some of these instances are for what is known as "sidewalk highways", barely wide enough for one lane and wouldn't conform to today's US highway standards. However, it may also be to bypass a populated city center, which might not want to be missed. As an example, consider taking the turn in Miami, passing under The Gateway on Main Street through the heart of the city.
Those who know the popular song about Route 66 may wonder why eight states was mentioned here, as opposed to the seven referenced either directly or by city name in the song. Many forget that the Mother Road passes through approximately ten miles in Kansas, especially since today's interstate highway alternative doesn't even touch this state. Today, the majority of this road has been reduced to a byway, but still has its classic route designation on the road itself, along with historic markers to help find the way. Hopping off Alternate US 69 allows the driver and riders to experience the Field of Dreams in Baxter Springs, and if traveling southwest, cross the Rainbow Bridge across the Brush Creek. This bridge has been reduced to one way travel with a two-lane alternative to the side, but remains on the National Register of Historic Places, and is a sight to see. Once back to the main highway, the state has designated highway 66 to take the traveler through Galena before reaching Missouri and the city of Joplin.
The next time your Internal Compass sends you west, get your kicks and follow it along the Mother Road of Route 66.
Looking to take a drive on the wild side? Here's one possibility that's out there.
Nestled in Southwestern Missouri outside the small town of Eagle Rock near the Arkansas border lies Eureka Springs Safari Park. This drive through menagerie is closely associated with the Promised Land Zoo, found about an hour to the east in Branson, Missouri. Family operated since 1992, the park holds several dozen different species of wild animals, both endangered and widely found, across over a hundred acres of land. In addition to the safari experience, whether self-guided or with a tour representative, a small petting zoo with several more species of animals may be found for all ages to visit.
As you enter the property, you are greeted at a building filled with the stench of excrement from the several dozen guinea pigs corralled in the back. This is a sign of things to come. After paying what is a complete rip-off of a price for what is offered and its means, the journey begins. Emus and antelopes begin to walk to your window begging for the overpriced pellets upsold at the door, tapping at the windows of the "cheapskates" as if the staff wants patrons to fulfill the animals' nutritional needs. In some cases of looking at the animals, you can tell that may be the expectation. As you drive along, Bible verses adorn the property, which almost seem to be a distraction from the lack of care for the grounds the staff has. Once the course is complete, if you're lucky to find any parking, the petting zoo is through the back of the original building, but good luck bringing a service animal if you require one, as they are prohibited.
At the end of the day, the experience at Eureka Springs Safari Park was fairly underwhelming. The hour drive from Branson was not worth the trip. In fact, it is our sincere hope that what we saw is not a sign of what is found at Promised Land Zoo, which was not visited, although we saw transporter trucks every now and then along the safari course. There are plenty of city zoos and safari drives across North America that offer a much more enjoyable family experience, and although what was seen at Eureka Springs wasn't the worst thing in the world, it is not a place where we would return without significant improvements.
So the next time your Internal Compass calls you to the wild animals, there's no shame in following it, but be careful where you seek what you wish to find.
Calling all music lovers of the 50's and 60's: Have we a drive down memory lane for you.
Situated in northeast Arkansas lies Rock and Roll Highway 67. United States Route 67 itself spans the majority of the central part of the country, however a section from the White River to the Missouri border has been granted this special designation, passed by the state legislature in the late 2000's. The naming of the highway was quite a debate, as the area was famous for "rockabilly" music, a portmanteau of "rock and roll" and "hillbilly". With the latter term proving to be concerning, the politicians of the day settled on its present name. Although the highway itself is being converted to interstate standards today, business routes near the cities preserve the classic designation.
Highway 67 was the home to many nightclubs in the hey-day of the rock and roll era. Popular musicians would flock to northeast Arkansas to perform, such as Jerry Lee Lewis, Roy Orbison, and Elvis Presley. The highway's venues were not limited to rock and roll, as country artists from the area were also drawn to the events, such as rock and roll turned country singer Conway Twitty. A story is shared in the area that the clubs were so influential that top Arkansas country artist Johnny Cash, one who would never allow himself to be exposed to the nightclub scene, was convinced by Elvis Presley to give a joint concert along highway 67.
The legacy of the many rockabilly musicians are preserved along Highway 67. The city of Newport Arkansas hosts the Rock 'N Roll Highway 67 Museum, containing memorabilia from all of the great performers who made this route famous. Head a little further northeast to the city of Walnut Ridge, where before catching the midnight train, take a stroll along the Guitar Walk at Cavenaugh Park, as they pay tribute to several famous nightclub acts. Just a block away from the park is a tribute to one more famous musical group that played the venues of Highway 67: The Beatles.
So the next time your Internal Compass takes you to Arkansas, take some time along Rock and Roll Highway 67.
Once again, everything has been packed up, and we are on the road. Where, you might ask? Fans of a particular genre may have figured it out by the title of the trip, and those looking at a calendar will have narrowed it down. However in this case, our previous location has been left behind, and we are embarking on a multi-leg trip. There are a few lessons learned.
First, we've figured out, for the most part, what we materialistically do and don't need. As is typical with just about anything in life, it comes with practice. We had received a tip about this from another full-time RVing couple that didn't take enough with them when they started. However, we went to almost the complete polar opposite and took too much with us. Looking around at the time this is being written, which is near the beginning of this trip, there's still quite a bit, but much of it being consumable and should be able to be whittled down easily.
Large amounts of consumables brings us to the second lesson learned: the torment of the terrace. Yes, during trip 9, we must admit it: We cheated a bit and stayed in a stationary fixture. It was offered as part of the workamping deal, so it's not like an apartment was rented. However, some of those habits started to return, such as buying in bulk and using amenities that aren't exactly portable. Some packing nightmares may have returned, but we weren't in as much of a mess as when we started this whole thing. Not to mention, their next crew has been set up for success, at least as much in terms of what we were able to offer them.
The third, but probably the most important lesson learned, was figuring out what's important to us. Anyone who seeks to enjoy this lifestyle should know that the only way you're ever getting rich is if someone who recognizes you from social media happens to buy you a winning lottery ticket. Full hook up and salary isn't worth it if you're going to end up with the same problems that drove you to start doing this in the first place. Obviously you'll need some income flowing if you're young full-timers with many remote work outlets requiring stationary living to suit their "reliable internet" needs, though answering a want ad with seasonal work for wage, despite all the signs everywhere, is more complex because you're then beholden to that particular state's tax situation, and there's only seven in the lower 48 at the time of writing this that don't charge state income taxes (there is an 8th that charges it on unearned income, which you'll probably have). At the end of the day, things should work out.
With all of those lessons learned, we're now better prepared to Follow our Internal Compass to the next land.
No matter the size of a city, one typically pines for a great food truck scene. Even within the relatively small Mountain Home, Arkansas, there are plenty of options available, and here's just a taste of what's offered.
First, we take you to Plaza Center on the east side of the city, where the middle of the parking lot is home to several semi-permanent food-truck-like kitchens. One of these is Ozark Mountain BBQ. Run by Doc, Dennis, Dallas, and staff, Ozark Mountain offers generous plates containing one of several meat options from their nearby smokers, a selection of sides bound to make most happy, and a couple of sauces making you want to have more. One highlight to their menu is their version of a "Frito Pie", an entrée that will remind you of nachos, but take you on a tour of their menu. Bring your furry little friend with you, as the purchase of a meal may come with a "pup cup", a small container of non-sauced pulled pork. We did notice that as much as the original three have done a great job, the introduction of staff let quality slightly slip. However, if you want good barbecue, this is a great place to go.
Heading closer to the center of the city, take a quick trip south of the border to Dos Gringos in Mountain Home. Dos Gringos offers a wide variety of wet and dry burritos, along with tacos, quesadilla plates, and breakfast specials. Although several Mexican establishments adorn the city, Dos Gringos provides quality food at a reasonable price without worries pertaining to shellfish allergies. Call ahead if planning a visit, as this establishment will tend to close on certain regular days in order to cater another event. However, once you're able to find them on an open day, this is one fine place to visit.
When you're ready for a dessert course, head back to Plaza Center for Sno Biz shaved ice. First starting in Minnesota, Sno Biz has expanded all across the midwest and south with several locations across the greater Ozark area, offering a wide variety of shaved ice concoctions. This is a seasonal business in Mountain Home, so don't expect to be able to buy any product during the winter months. When they are open though, Sno Biz continues to offer reasonable prices for all to enjoy. Try adding vanilla cream to even some of their regular offerings, or be creative and combine your own choices of syrups. If you're worried your shaved ice might collapse outward, add a spill stopper. You may even be lucky enough to find their mobile food truck in the Harps' parking lot, or somewhere else in town.
So the next time you Follow your Internal Compass, make a stop at some of the food trucks in the local area.
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